We started Day 2 with a 9am breakfast at Blinkers, a classic, bustling Belfast restaurant right in the city centre. Mel went straight for an Ulster Fry — the full Northern Irish experience — while I opted for scrambled eggs. We lingered over fresh orange juice and what felt like gallons of tea, reading the morning papers and easing into the day.

Reading the morning paper at Blinkers Breakfast at Blinkers

At 10am, our driver arrived for the famous Black Cab Taxi Tour, one of Belfast’s most essential experiences. These tours began during the Troubles, when black cab drivers ferried locals safely through divided neighbourhoods. Today, they offer an intimate, balanced look at the city’s complex past. Our guide walked us through the history from both sides of the Peace Wall, explaining the political, cultural and religious tensions that shaped decades of conflict. We visited murals across the Shankill and Falls, each telling its own story — memorials, tributes, warnings, hopes. Some stops were sombre, marking sites of atrocities that still echo through the city’s collective memory.

Divis Tower PSNI / MI5 / British Army not welcome sign Free Palestine solidarity mural No Sovereignty, No Control mural Feirste mural, West Belfast Gaza solidarity mural Ireland Palestine mural Falls Road IRA memorial Bobby Sands mural Peace Wall message - Danny Ash Peace Wall message - 1st Klass City Tours Danny and Mel at the Peace Wall The Peace Wall, stretching for miles Mural on the Shankill side UVF mural, “Forever Honour Their Sacrifice” Shankill bombing memorial, 23 October 1993 Ulster Volunteer Force Scottish Brigade mural King Charles III mural near Harry Corry Further along the tour route Another Shankill mural Peace Wall messages continue Black cab tour, further stops Nearing the end of the tour Final murals on the route Wrapping up the Black Cab Tour

It’s staggering that the Peace Wall, first erected in 1969, still stands today — extended multiple times and now stretching over 20 miles. Belfast remains one of the most segregated cities on Earth, yet the fragile harmony is real, lived, and deeply felt. The tour was eye‑opening, emotional and absolutely unforgettable.

After two absorbing hours, we needed a breather — and a pint. We headed to Nancy Mulligan’s, a lively pub where we settled in with a couple of Beamish stouts while watching the afternoon football.

Settling in with a pint at Nancy Mulligan’s Beamish stout Watching the afternoon football Nancy Mulligan’s Afternoon pint Nancy Mulligan’s atmosphere Another round Nancy Mulligan’s interior Settling in Pint at Nancy Mulligan’s Afternoon at the pub Nancy Mulligan’s crowd Wrapping up at Nancy Mulligan’s Last pint before heading back

Back at the Airbnb, Mel grabbed a quick kip while I took myself on a solo wander down the Shankill Road, seeing the murals up close and soaking in the atmosphere. I stopped at The Royal Bar, a traditional loyalist pub dating back to the early 1900s, long known as a community hub during the Troubles. Then onto The Rex Bar, another historic Shankill institution with deep roots in the neighbourhood’s identity. Both were fascinating in their own right — raw, real, and steeped in history.

The Royal Bar, Shankill Road Inside The Royal Bar The Rex Bar, Shankill Road Inside The Rex Bar Shankill Road atmosphere Solo wander down the Shankill

A couple of hours later, Mel joined me and, with the rain now pouring down, we grabbed an Uber back into town. First stop: The Duke of York, where we randomly bumped into a friend from Kidsgrove — small world. A couple of pints later, we continued the crawl.

Back at The Duke of York Bumping into a friend from Kidsgrove A pint at The Duke of York The Duke of York, evening

Kelly’s Cellars

Next was Kelly’s Cellars, one of Belfast’s oldest pubs, built in 1720. It’s famous for its vaulted ceilings, open fires and its role in the 1790s United Irishmen meetings. A proper slice of history — and a cracking pint.

Kelly’s Cellars

Maddens

From there we headed to Maddens, a legendary traditional bar known for live folk music and fiercely loyal regulars. It was absolutely rammed, shoulder‑to‑shoulder, so we stayed for one before moving on.

Maddens, packed for live music A pint at Maddens

The Crown Liquor Saloon

Our next stop was The Crown, Belfast’s most famous pub and a National Trust treasure. Built in the 1820s and restored in Victorian splendour, it’s full of stained glass, mosaic tiles, carved snugs and gas lamps. Strangely empty for a Saturday night, but still stunning.

The Crown Liquor Saloon

To finish the evening, we headed to Nu Delhi, where I had a rogan josh and Mel went for a chicken korma. We shared chips, rice and naan, all delicious, and the bill came to £57 — not bad at all for a hearty Belfast curry.

We rolled back to the Airbnb around 11pm, full, content and pleasantly exhausted after a day that blended history, culture and classic Belfast hospitality.