Campsite (19-21 August):

  • Day 1: Rhein Camping, Waldshut
  • Day 2: Rhein Camping, Waldshut
  • Day 3: Rhein Camping, Waldshut

Day 1 - Wednesday 19 August

Change of plan from heading to Lake Garda next, the distances and heat are destroying us and would have left a humungous journey back so we picked a campsite on the German side of the Rhine separating Germany from Switzerland. Firstly filled up with fuel from Domaso, this was around £1.79 which is way cheaper than the ridiculous price of £2.40 as in Switzerland.

Fuel stop leaving Domaso

Again there was some absolutely stunning scenery along the way back through the Swiss Alps and Lake Lucerne. Unsurpassed with staggering beauty. The journey still ended up taking us over 6 hours in searing heat and some ridiculously long traffic jams - the first one into the 16km long Gotthard tunnel and the second on a Swiss motorway north of Zurich.

Driving back through the Swiss Alps Lake Lucerne scenery along the drive Scenic mountain view on Swiss motorway High alpine pass road Lake Lucerne shoreline view Winding highway through Swiss mountains Stunning alpine landscape Traffic queue near Gotthard Tunnel Motorway descent north of Zurich Approaching the German border

Eventually we arrived around 5pm at Rhein Camping Waldshut. What a glorious spot! Overlooking the Rhein river, we set up the awning and cracked a beer, Mel had a little snooze and I went for a wild swim in the Rhein - glorious! Perfect temperature and calm with a slight current downstream. The motorhomes here are of a different class - in particular a custom built Morelo Palace - going price around £600k!

Arriving at Rhein Camping Waldshut Campsite pitch setup next to the Rhine View of the Rhein river from pitch Wild swimming in the Rhine Relaxing by the riverbank Luxury motorhomes at Rhein Camping Morelo Palace motorhome at site

We relaxed for a while, showered and headed along the river to the historic town of Waldshut. The town has some incredible architecture dating back to the 13th century.

Walking trail along the Rhine to Waldshut Entering historic Waldshut town 13th-century architecture in Waldshut Historic town gate structure

We chose a lovely looking restaurant called “Mona Lisa” as it was now around 9pm and things were shutting down. I picked a Diavolo pizza - my third in 3 days, and Mel went for the lasagne with chips. Both were spot on. I also had a wheat beer and Mel a coke and two big bottles of San Pellegrino sparkling water. The bill was around £45, more expensive than Italy, but way cheaper than Switzerland.

Ristorante Mona Lisa exterior Diavolo pizza and lasagne dinner Enjoying dinner at Mona Lisa

We walked the road way home and arrived back around 10:30 - the van is still boiling hot - little midges everywhere as we are so close to the river so we had to close the blinds and roof - the electric fan has been an absolute godsend.

Waldshut town square lit up at night Historic building illuminated at night Night walk along Waldshut streets Late night return to Rhein Camping


Day 2 - Thursday 20 August

Gave Mel a lie in after a pretty shite night’s sleep again and made myself a fantastic omelette and ate it overlooking the Rhein.

Breakfast omelette overlooking the Rhine

Left Mel at the site and went for a walk into Waldshut along the river. The weather is significantly cooler today - around 25 degrees and much needed. Stumbled upon a lovely cafe / bar - Stadtmürli Pils Pub, where I devoured the local beer made literally up the road - Rothaus Pils. I slowly sipped 3 of them whilst people watching and catching up on phone calls to the boys. Was there for a couple of hours and went to pay - cash only - I had no cash and no debit card, promised I would return to pay the 11 euro bar tab later. Wandered to the next bar for a small beer and grabbed a salted caramel ice cream to walk along the canal with.

Riverwalk path into Waldshut Stadtmürli Pils Pub in town Enjoying a local Rothaus Pils

Met sleepy Mel at the crazy golf place mid way back for a couple of beers and some heated debate about world affairs.

Crazy golf venue along river path Beers at the crazy golf bar

Walked to Lidl for some supplies as it was getting late and still hadn’t ate when I spotted a Burger King! Not had a Burger King for about 20 years so thought I would try one. Had a double cheeseburger and bacon meal thing with fries smothered in cheese and jalapeños with extra chilli and a diet coke - it was actually really nice and filled a hole - cost was around £14. Wandered back, had an Erdinger Dunkel by the van before going to the big duvet.

Lidl stop for supplies Burger King meal stop Evening Erdinger Dunkel at the van Quiet night at Rhein Camping


Day 3 - Friday 21 August

Weather today is dreadful. 19 degrees tops and hammering down. We have no food left, no milk and no coffee. Ran to the restaurant to grab a couple of cappuccinos to go - for 7 euros, they were absolutely tiny. Started reading my new book - Bullshit Jobs - a fascinating insight into the fakeness of the entire jobs industry.

Rainy morning over the Rhine Tiny takeaway cappuccinos

We dragged our sodden arses into the campsite restaurant for a German lunch. I had pork tsatsiki with fried potatoes and a lovely side salad. Mel had a feta and pepperoni Flammkuchen - a local flat bread with chips, I also had a lovely wheat beer and Mel a fruit tea.

Campsite restaurant interior German lunch spread with Flammkuchen and pork

We retired back to the van so Mel could have a sleep and I could read for a bit whilst it hammered down. It finally stopped raining around 5pm so we showered and wandered into town, first to pay my bar bill and then have a beer in said bar.

Rain clearing over campsite Returning to Stadtmürli Pils Pub to pay bill

We moved onto Calypso for a beer and an Aperol and then went for tea at Lamm German restaurant. What an absolute beauty of a building! Over 750 years old and full of character, solid old oak beams and great ales - it was right up our street. Mel had a Greek style Rosti with pork and olives and I had pork, mushrooms, and croquettes in a lovely red wine sauce. We pushed the boat out and had a dessert each - a Toblerone mousse & a creme brulee. We also had a local Riesling wine and a couple of Dunkels. Gorgeous all round - bill was about £45.

Calypso bar stop Historic Lamm German restaurant building Interior oak beams at Lamm restaurant Traditional German dinner at Lamm

We walked back along the canal and were in bed by 21:30.

Night walk along the canal back to camp