We eased into Day 6 with a slow, sunny start in Bettyhill, waking around 9am and fuelling up on scrambled eggs before tackling one of the NC500’s most celebrated stretches — the wild, sculpted north‑west coast. We knew it would be a long day of driving, but with blue skies overhead and a coastline that never stops showing off, we were more than ready.

A sunny start in Bettyhill

The morning quickly became a sequence of impromptu photo stops, each bend revealing another cinematic sweep of mountains, lochs and untouched beaches. Our first proper pause was at Choraidh Croft Tearoom, a charming little café perched on the shore of Loch Eribol. Coffee, a quick loo break, and a moment to breathe in the stillness — the perfect reset before continuing west.

Impromptu photo stops along the coast Mountains and lochs of the north-west coast Choraidh Croft Tearoom, Loch Eribol Coffee break by the loch The stillness of Loch Eribol

Next up: Smoo Cave. Under cloudless skies, the short walk down into the cavern felt almost effortless. The cave itself was impressive, its vast chamber glowing in the sunshine that poured through the entrance. A simple stop, but a memorable one.

Smoo Cave The vast chamber of Smoo Cave

From there, we headed straight for an NC500 institution — Cheese N Toasted. Their toasties are famous for a reason. Yes, we waited around 40 minutes, and yes, £9 for a toastie is… bold. But as a one‑off, it absolutely hit the spot.

Queuing at Cheese N Toasted The famous toastie Waiting for our order Cheese N Toasted Finally, the toastie arrives Well worth the wait

Our culinary curiosity then led us to Cocoa Mountain in Balnakiel. The chocolate was nice enough, though the experience would have felt more special served in proper crockery rather than disposable cups. Still, it was a sweet interlude before the most dramatic drive of the day.

Cocoa Mountain, Balnakiel Hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain

The route from Durness to Achmelvich is nothing short of extraordinary. Rugged, remote, and constantly shifting, it’s the kind of landscape that makes you feel tiny in the best possible way. The Drumbeg loop was particularly intense in the motorhome — narrow, twisting, and occasionally nerve‑jangling — but utterly breathtaking. We spotted wild deer along the way, adding to the sense of raw Highland wilderness. It was one of those drives you never forget.

The dramatic drive from Durness The Drumbeg loop Wild deer along the road Raw Highland wilderness The narrow, twisting Drumbeg road

We rolled into Shore Caravan Site, Achmelvich around 6pm, excited for their on‑site fish and chip van… only to discover a full power cut across the site. No electricity, no chips, no luck. Classic us. But honestly, it didn’t matter — because this campsite turned out to be the best we’ve ever stayed on. Bar none.

Arriving at Shore Caravan Site, Achmelvich Discovering the power cut Parking up regardless

Under warm evening sun, with the sea flat as glass and the sky a perfect blue, we parked wherever we fancied on the grass and wandered down to dip our toes off the rocks. Achmelvich Beach, just next door, was glowing. Soft white sand, turquoise water, people swimming and sunbathing — it felt almost Mediterranean. We spent an hour there, just relaxing, soaking it all in.

Achmelvich Beach Soft white sand and turquoise water Dipping our toes off the rocks Almost Mediterranean Relaxing at Achmelvich Beach

Back at the van, crisps and a cold beer became our makeshift dinner starter before Mel worked her magic on the grill, producing two brilliant homemade burgers. Eating them in the golden evening light felt like pure contentment.

Crisps and a cold beer Mel working the grill Homemade burgers underway The grill at Achmelvich Golden evening light Eating burgers in the golden hour Pure contentment Dinner at Achmelvich The perfect evening meal After dinner at the campsite

As sunset approached, I climbed the nearest hill for a better view. The summit was dotted with people — some chatting quietly, others meditating — all gathered to witness the sun melt into the sea and the distant Hebridean islands. It was a genuinely spiritual moment, one that left me speechless.

Climbing the hill for sunset The summit at Achmelvich Gathering to watch the sunset The sun melting into the sea Distant Hebridean islands A genuinely spiritual moment Sunset over Achmelvich The best sunset of the trip

I wandered back down around 10:30pm, the sky still glowing, brushed our teeth, read for a while, and eventually drifted off under the stars visible through the skylight.

Wandering back down as the sky glowed The end of a truly special day

A truly special day — one of the best of the entire trip.