After yesterday’s unforgettable sunset, we allowed ourselves a gentle lie‑in at Achmelvich, skipping breakfast and rolling out around 11am. The weather was still holding strong — warm, bright, and almost surreal for the north‑west Highlands — setting the tone for another spectacular day on the NC500.

Our first stop was Lochinver, a small but lovely village that’s become famous for one thing: pies. More specifically, Lochinver Larder. We couldn’t resist. I went for the fisherman’s pie, rich and comforting, while Mel opted for a classic steak pie — equally delicious. A proper Highland treat.

Lochinver Larder Fisherman’s pie and steak pie

A quick visit to the local Spar followed, where we stocked up on essentials and a few local ales. Prices everywhere seem to be creeping up these days, and filling the tank at £1.94 a litre was a painful reminder. Good lord indeed.

Stocking up at the local Spar Filling the tank

With supplies sorted, we headed for one of the most atmospheric historic sites on the route: Ardvreck Castle, which dates back to the late 16th century and was built by the Clan MacLeod. It’s most famous for its connection to James VI of Scotland (later James I of England), who was briefly held here in 1650 after surrendering to the Covenanters. The castle has long since fallen into ruin, but its skeletal remains perched on the shores of Loch Assynt make it one of the most dramatic sights on the NC500.

Under blazing sunshine, the castle looked almost otherworldly. We sent the drone up and captured some incredible footage of the ruins reflected in the still water.

Ardvreck Castle The skeletal ruins on Loch Assynt Ardvreck Castle under blazing sunshine The castle reflected in the loch Sending the drone up over Ardvreck Aerial footage of the ruins Ardvreck Castle from above One of the most dramatic sights on the NC500

A short walk away sits Calda House — built in the early 18th century by the MacKenzies after they took control of the land from the MacLeods. Intended as a grand residence, it was tragically short‑lived, destroyed by fire only a few decades later. Today, its roofless shell stands as a haunting counterpoint to Ardvreck Castle, representing the turbulent clan history of the region.

Calda House The roofless shell of Calda House

We sat by Loch Assynt eating our pies, surrounded by mountains and silence. It felt magical. Afterwards, we wandered over to a nearby waterfall, where I very nearly misjudged a jump across the rocks — a close call that would’ve been deeply embarrassing.

Eating pies by Loch Assynt Surrounded by mountains and silence The nearby waterfall A close call on the rocks Leaving Loch Assynt

By mid‑afternoon, we were back on the road for another jaw‑dropping drive. The scenery between Loch Assynt and Ullapool is staggering — vast, ancient, and impossible to capture fully in photos. We arrived at Ardmair Point around 3:30pm, ready to settle in.

The drive towards Ullapool Arriving at Ardmair Point Settling in at Ardmair Point

I’d booked a premium pitch right on the shore of Loch Canaird, and it was worth every penny. With temperatures now in the mid‑20s — practically unheard of in this part of Scotland — we sat under the awning with a snack and a cold beer, watching the water shimmer.

Our pitch on the shore of Loch Canaird Watching the water shimmer

Eventually, the loch proved too tempting. I went for a swim, and “bracing” doesn’t begin to cover it. Let’s just say the cold made its presence known and things began to shrink. I bobbed around for about half an hour until I could no longer feel my extremities, then retreated to the warm stones on the shore. Another magical moment.

Taking the plunge into Loch Canaird Bracing doesn’t begin to cover it

Mel whipped up fresh homemade burgers again, and we ate them while birdwatching along the loch’s edge — simple food, perfect setting.

Homemade burgers by the loch Birdwatching along the loch’s edge

As evening settled in, we cracked open a few Scottish ales and listened to music while the sun dipped behind the mountains. We left the curtains open and fell asleep with the view of the loch and surrounding peaks right outside the window.

Evening ales at Ardmair Point The sun dipping behind the mountains Sunset over Loch Canaird Settling in for the night The view of the loch and peaks Falling asleep with the curtains open

Another fabulous day on the NC500 — peaceful, warm, and full of moments that will stay with us forever.